Spring is the ideal season to plant evergreens, both from the point of view of being the best time for plants to settle in, and because any winter-bare spots are still clearly visible. After trees, I look upon larger structural evergreens as being the most important plants in a garden: creating colour, form and interest right through the year, coming into their own during winter and providing a backdrop to seasonal flowering and foliage plants from spring to autumn. Some are naturally architectural, with bold foliage or a striking shape, like New Zealand flax (Phormium), Yucca, castor oil plant (Fatsia) and many conifers – I’m particularly fond of smaller varieties of pine, and slender upright junipers. Others can have architecture imposed upon them with trimming and shaping: plants that respond well to this include bay, box, Lonicera nitida, pittosporum and yew. For the most part, evergreen shrubs are generally slower-growing than deciduous ones so it can be well worth ‘buying time’ and purchasing ready-grown larger specimens for that instant transformation – even one or two will make all the difference. Do choose your plants with care, though, and make sure they’re sufficiently hardy for your site: while there are some splendidly good value Mediterranean-type plants (such as palms and olives) available in large specimen sizes locally, they won’t be a bargain if the next hard winter kills them off!
In between the evergreens, plants like perennials and grasses look wonderful planted in groups or drifts – threes, fives, even sevens – for a natural appearance. There’s still just time to make more of your plants for free, by dividing established clumps of herbaceous perennials (not those which are in flower already, though) and ornamental grasses. Deciduous grasses can be cut back to just above the ground first if you haven’t done so already, but grasses that are evergreen, such as Stipa species and many Carex, shouldn’t be cut back – instead, ‘comb’ through the clump using a rake or your fingers, to pull out dead leaves and stems. To divide, dig up good-sized clumps of plant and separate into pieces, each with plenty of roots and shoot buds, then refresh the ground with compost and slow-release fertilizer before replanting the divisions at the same depth they were growing previously. Firm the soil well and water thoroughly. They should soon establish and create a really good show even in the coming year.
Seasonal jobs
- Plant seed potatoes. Even in a tiny garden it’s worth planting a few Earlies in large pots, potato barrels or bags, to enjoy delicious ‘new’ potatoes in early summer. Enriching soil with potato fertilizer really boosts crop size.
- Stake tall-growing perennials such as delphinium, sweet rocket and cone flower, so plants grow through and conceal their supports.
- Feed lawns with a slow release fertilizer.
- Make regular sowings of quick-growing veg, especially salads.
- On large glass doors and windows which can be death-traps to young birds learning to fly, fix bird silhouette stickers. These can be bought, or simply search the internet for “printable bird silhouette”; print and cut out; and fix to glass.
Looking good now
Clematis alpine and C. armandii
Magnolias
Perennials including Bergenia, Epimedium, Euphorbia, Hellebores and Pulmonaria.
Spring bulbs such as later-blooming varieties of narcissi and tulips.
Sue Fisher is a garden designer and writer based on the Bere Peninsula. Tel 01822 841895. Email: suefisher@talktalk.net Website: www.suefishergardens.co.uk