One of the great pleasures and rewards for those in the wine trade is the occasional jaunt to not only visit the regions of wine production, but also to meet the dedicated band of winemakers who are responsible for the making and experimenting with, new innovative concepts in wine production. On such a recent visit to Bordeaux it was a reminder not only to the finer things in life but also reinforced a few concerns about the perception of Bordeaux wines, reference quality versus value.
There is no doubt that Bordeaux, the very heart of iconic wines, continues to have immense clout. The market is strong and continues to gain in strength, on the emerging Asian markets demand to be in the wine loop as regards aspiring to drink the top quality wine, but also to exploit wine for investment purposes. That said, prices do need to be questioned. At the end of the day, Bordeaux vineyards are large and they continue to govern high prices. In short, business is good in Bordeaux.
One never ceases to be overwhelmed as you drive out of the historic city of Bordeaux on what can only be described a nostalgic trip down the very smartest restaurant wine list. Whilst the proven recipe for success for Bordeaux wines has, for many years, been tried and tested. One is also mindful that each Chateau has their own interpretation of how they can strive to produce the very best wines ... yet never losing sight of that Chateau’s history, aspirations and reputation.
It is worth remembering that Bordeaux wines are on the whole ‘blended’, that being wines made up of a combination of up to 5 grape varieties ~ Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. In fact, only a tiny percentage of Bordeaux reds (Clarets) are made of a single grape variety. The skill of constructing a blend in itself does create large complications and uncertainties. Not all grape varieties either flower or ripen at the same pace. A couple of weeks delay waiting for one element of your cuvee to ripen can be devastated by an unwelcome rain storm. Equally, rain and hail as the flowering sets can literally decimate the grapes before they even form. In short, the skill of the winemaker is secondary to the unpredictable influences of the weather. It is the major factor that every vintage is totally unique, hence prices, flavours, ageing potential, can all vary.
After what can only be described as an extensive, often exhausting, and yet nevertheless thorough, research trip, my handy hint is that 2010 is a great vintage offering heaps of lush expressive fruit, great structure and poise. Yes, they will continue to develop further but in this, their very early stage of development, vibrance and youthful charm can often more than compensate for the older more developed softer nuances. 2010 is, also in no doubt, a very sound vintage for the top flight ‘Grand Cru’ Clarets. Wines that show great ageing potential, but just remember ... time costs money.