A both seasonal and relentless cycle, with late spring/early summer offering a hint of what’s to come…
As a wine importer and merchant, I am totally beholden to the skills of wine makers, as indeed they are dependent on the weather. In short, the wine I sell reflects much more than the brief indication on the wine label. The wine label will certainly inform you about the region of production, the vintage, the alcoholic percentage, and maybe even the grape variety. But it is only by trying the wine and having a working relationship with the producer that I could be confident that the wine meets my expectations.
Whilst price is always crucial, to me the quality is perhaps more important. Every wine is a true ambassador for the year from which they are produced, but trust me, there will always be a huge variation in quality as each vigneron interprets a specific year and adds personal touches. In previous articles I have mentioned the fact that world wine production has fallen by 8% with the biggest reductions coming from the vineyards of Europe. This is due to a greater susceptibility to the potential of inclement weather conditions.
Only yesterday I was discussing the plight of the smaller yield with my principle prosecco producer. Il Follo is arguably the best available prosecco and in 2017 he saw a 50% reduction of fruit harvested; this is not his fault, but means the price is destined to rise by £1 per bottle. The passionate and dedicated wine makers, I believe, must be rewarded with loyalty wherever possible, assuming the quality that they achieve is unrivalled. If it is necessary to put prices up, then prices must go up.
The life of a wine producer is, as with any farmer, a tough and unpredictable life. The endeavours of a year’s worth of effort are only realised at the very end of the year, when his wine is actually sold.
The cycle of the wine producers' work is both seasonal and relentless. In Europe, in the bleak cold months of January and February it is essential to prune the vines in preparation for the year ahead, but not too early in order to minimise the risk of frost damage. At the same time, the posts and wires that support the vines must be overhauled and maintained, and new young vines from the nurseries must be planted. Through the month of May, vines must be continually de-suckered - that is cutting off and tying up the wine suckers. This ensures the energy is concentrated into the new shoots as they emerge. Frost is, at this time a potential problem, as the shoots are at their most vulnerable. It is just such a problem that caused the shortage in the yield of the 2017 vintage.
June is such an exciting time as the vines grow vigorously and the flowers start to blossom. From here on one can estimate that it will be approximately 100 days until the harvest. From now on meticulous care must be taken to minimise the risk of pest and fungal diseases. Late hail and severe rain are a concern and it has to be noted that with the increase of global warming, these occurrences are all too frequent. Once the fruit has been harvested either by machine or by hand, the focus of attention falls to the business of actually making the wine, and only by analysing the natural sugar and acidity levels, can the quality of the wine be predicted. It is with experience and understanding of the structure of the grape and the process of fermentation, that the use of wood, ageing and other factors can all be assessed. A wine maker will always credit a great wine to the team that nurtured the vines throughout the year. In reality, the accumulated skills of both are crucial. Perhaps in different vintages the wizardry of the wine maker would be important in order to salvage what could be a problematical wine.
The annual cycle from grape production through to wine production is relentless, but the eager anticipation of trying the finished wine will always intrigue the enthusiastic wine merchant and imbiber alike.
Charles Steevenson