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Once known for being the drink of choice for Grandmas everywhere, sherry is shaking off its old-fashioned image and emerging as, dare I say it, quite hip and cool. In the same way that ales went from the preserve of the Grandad to the trendy discerning drinker, sherry is now finding itself a new appreciative audience.
If you're thinking of trying sherry for the first time or looking for something new, I have picked some of my favourites that will tantalise your taste buds and ensure you will have a 'sherry good summer’!
Tasty Tio
Tio Pepe (£10.49) is made in Jerez, Spain from Palomino grapes which are pressed using a Willems. This press applies the lightest pressure on the fruit, without crushing the stems, seeds or skin. The grape 'must' from this first, light pressing is used exclusively to make Tio Pepe. The resulting wine is then matured for at least five years in American oak casks. This is known as the solera system,
which consists of rows of casks stacked one upon another, all containing sherry of the same type. Each contains wine of an average age, the one at floor level being the oldest, from which wine is drawn off and used.
While the sherry is maturing, it is veiled in 'flor' - a layer of yeasts which changes the composition of the wine and gives it the distinctive flavour and taste.
The appearance is pale and straw-like with a very pronounced nose of almonds, butter, citrus fruits and fresh bread. On the taste it is absolutely dry, but delicate, nutty and yeasty with strong hints of elderflower and lemon.
Always served chilled - it is superb over ice with tonic for a long, refreshing drink. It is a fantastic accompaniment to olives and nuts, asparagus, seafood and salads, and of course, tapas.
Elegant Elegante
Elegante (£9.99) is not as dry as Tio Pepe as it spends less time maturating under the flor. Produced using the same solera method, Elegante is a young, value for money Fino aged for three years in American oak casks. The wine is pale golden in colour with a crisp and dry taste. The floral pear characters create a subtle, clean, pleasing palate. Mixed with a premium tonic, Elegante makes a luscious long drink, but traditionally it’s served on its own. Well chilled, this sultry Spaniard is a perfect match for sea food, soups, oysters - and surprisingly, fish and chips!
Delicious Delicado Amontillado
Delicada Amontillado (£14.99), is a style of Amontillado, characterised by being darker than Fino. An Amontillado is the result of two successive ageing processes, both in solera – firstly biological as a Fino under flor, then oxidatively in oak. It normally starts life as a Fino, of minimum age three years, when the protective layer of flor has broken down. Such wines are then fortified to 17 % abv to kill remaining yeast cells.
The sherry offers a strong nose of crushed, freshly roasted hazelnut, hints of dried citrus peel, a little high-toned marmalade, raisin and a touch of toffee; medium-full bodied, with an intense palate of crushed fresh and roasted hazelnut, with a hints of walnut and dried citrus, finishing with a touch of toffee right on the end of the medium-long length. For a food match, the nuttier complexity compared with Fino lends itself well to dishes that include cured meat, game and cheese, seafood and rich, meaty tapas.
So whether it's something to accompany a meal, tapas on the terrace or just a refreshing tasty beverage for those summer evenings on the patio, there really is a sherry good sherry for everyone - and it's not just for Christmas!
Jason Mules
Waitrose Okehampton