In my previous articles, the focus has flexed between the merits of new concepts in wine development, grape varieties with unpronounceable names, and wine trends… but always a mention of the latest vintage. Well, it is in the autumn that the implications of the vintage really become apparent. With that in mind, I have recently been spending time in southern France, reviewing both the quality and quantity, not to mention the prices of the 2018 vintage. This task of late has become all the more serious, as I find myself the buyer for a wine consortium of 24 independent, like-minded wine merchants, with a focus on southern France.
This new task, whilst pleasurable does tend to focus one’s mind as independent wine merchants really do need to maintain the upper edge in the wines we buy. Whilst price is always critical, quality must never be compromised. My task as a buyer has become less arduous as I can share my responsibilities with my ‘Master of Wine’ son, Liam. His time spent as senior buyer for Waitrose, and now his role as a wine maker of note for wines predominantly from southern France, means we are well-placed to hunt out yet further intriguing and handcrafted wines.
While attending a recent wine seminar, there was huge relief as we welcomed in new wines from the 2018 vintage; following the dreadful, short and very testing, 2017 vintage, much bigger yields and top quality are very apparent across most of the regions of France, and indeed Europe. After a near perfect summer, and a dry harvest, our producers are very upbeat, and yet they are less than receptive for prices to be reduced. In years of small and troubled production, prices need to be raised to compensate for lack of stock. And yet in years of plenty, prices also need to be raised… because they do! Make hay while the sun shines.
Whilst my personal preference for French and European wines is very apparent, at a recent new world tasting, the European styles are now being impeccably replicated by their counterparts in the southern hemisphere. With wine makers ‘pinging’ from one hemisphere to the other, it is inevitable that their personal emphasis in wine production, is apparent in the wines they create. One of the stars of a recent tasting was an intriguing New-Zealand-German Riesling blend - the very best of each country, racy, highly charged yet crisp acidity, typical of the Germanic style, in total balance with the slightly weightier, fuller structure of the New World style. Fingers crossed, it will be here for Christmas!
Despite the looming chaos of Brexit, wine continues to offer great relief and pleasure, and if you ask the right doctors it is apparently good for you… I think I got that right! So here’s a date for your diaries: November 18th - Beaujolais Nouveau! The 2018 vintage, like all wines from this vintage is looking exceedingly promising. Do not miss out on this gem of a wine which always offers great insight into the new vintage.