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What's so special about the Bere Peninsula? To the casual visitor it probably resembles many of West Devon's parishes with its narrow lanes, Devon hedges surrounding small fields and patches of woodland. I would however encourage you to get away from the main thoroughfares to fully appreciate what the Peninsula’s natural world has to offer. It may not have any of the high moorland that Devon is famed for but for sheer variety it is as good as any other parish in the PL19 and PL20 areas!
Pause for a while at one of the high points, for example from the lane near Colliford farm (OS map reference 466653) where one can look down on Bere Ferrers and the confluence of the two great rivers, Tamar and Tavy, against the background of Plymouth, Saltash and the two bridges that link them. At high tide there is a large expanse of of salt water with saltmarsh and reed beds at the margins; this mix of land and water and the steep wooded valleys that lead down to the rivers are what I want to focus on. Its contribution to the ecological diversity of Devon is significant especially as thirty percent of the county’s saltmarsh habitat is found in the combined estuary of Tamar,Tavy and Lynher. Fortunately there is an extensive net work of footpaths, including the Tamar Discovery Trail, which follow these valleys. The foreshore and reed beds can be viewed from the roads at Weir Quay and at Bere Ferrers while a short walk across the (tidal) causeway from Lopwell offers access to a saltmarsh that is specially protected because of the animal and plant species to be found there (read the information board!) and to the freshwater lake above the dam.
At low tide the estuaries appear to contain nothing but glorious mud! The accumulated organic debris and invertebrate animals are however a rich feeding ground. Gulls are always present, but the motionless upright figures of both grey herons and the pure white Egrets can be spotted, often at close quarters! Fast, low flying wading birds skim the surface uttering clear piping calls as they pass. The resident redshanks are most frequent during the summer months but they will soon be joined by several other species including, by Christmas, elegant avocets and other waders including curlews and plovers.
A number of small streams drain water from the higher parts towards the rivers and by following these down you enter into an almost primeval world of steep sided valleys and tall thin trees festooned with ivy lianas.The ground becomes increasingly wet underfoot where the valleys end in small creeks colonised with vegetation, including full-sized willows. These eventually seem to get top-heavy, keel over and take root again along the branches producing an impenetrable boggy thicket.The valley sides were once used for horticulture and orchards that now lie abandoned; as they have reverted to woodland the number of deer (mainly roe) has increased and they regularly visit gardens on the edges of both villages from dusk to dawn. I get the impression that two birds have taken advantage of this altered habitat - the staccato hammering of the greater spotted woodpecker echoing across the valley and the irritated chatter of the nuthatch in the branches above my head are regularly accompaniments on any walk or gardening activity.
Visitors should not neglect the lanes, fields and hedgerows of the parish. Although some fields have inevitably succumbed to the pressures of modern agriculture typified by a bright green monoculture surrounded by hedges shorn to the minimum and depleted of flora and fauna enough tussocky rough grazing still survives and skylarks can be seen and heard above the relevant fields accompanied by the mewing call of the buzzard. The ghostly white barn owl may still be seen, though sightings are increasingly rare. From early spring until summer the roadside verges and hedges produce a riotous succession of flowers – primroses, bluebells, campions culminating in the frothy show of Queen Annes Lace or Hedge Parsley and in hidden corners the rare bastard balm. As spring changes from summer into autumn the seed-pods and hedgerow fruits decorate the hedges to provide the winter sustenance for birds and mammals
I hope this ecological diversity can survive into the modern world. A walk in the country should provide the visitor with more than just physical exercise!
Pete Mayston