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One of Tavistock's great assets is the proximity of Whitchurch Down. Virtually unchanged over centuries with a long established place in farming. Here, Helen Harris gives us a fascinating insight into its many uses over the centuries.
Whitchurch Down has long been a place of retreat for local people, from those who doubtless ascended for safety or to view the scene in 997 when the Danes fired upon Tavistock Abbey, to the many who come today for fresh air and exercise.
The Down's place in farming is long established. It is part of the wider area comprising Whitchurch Common, one of the ancient Commons of Devon that surround the central core – the Forest of Dartmoor – and pertain to individual parishes. (Here the term, Forest, which dates from the 13th century, does not denote an area of trees, but a royal hunting ground). Certain farms in the 22 surrounding parishes were said to be 'in venville' (from the Latin fines villarum) which, in return for some obligations, carried privileges including grazing rights. These still continue, controlled now by Dartmoor Commoners' Association, hence the prevalence of farmers' sheep, cattle and ponies that currently graze the moor.
The closest portion of the Down in Tavistock parish was originally part of Tavistock Abbey lands which, after 1539, were given by Henry VIII to the Russell family – subsequently Dukes of Bedford. The Whitchurch section was bought by the Bedford estate in 1909 and thus came into the one ownership. Now, following purchase in1964, Whitchurch Down is owned by Tavistock Town Council.
Over the years the Down has carried many feet and served various uses. In medieval times tracks across it were traversed by, amongst others, those crossing from monasteries on either side. The two surviving granite crosses provided welcome guidance on the route. Signs of past crop cultivation, seen as grassy strips, can be observed, looking towards Middlemoor and in other places. There are remains of past quarrying and mine workings for copper that bear witness to industrial activity. In wartime the territory provided ground for military camps and training. And at various dates in history the Down has been the place for celebratory events, with bonfires and beacons.
Since the new age of leisure developed the Down has fulfilled a wider potential as the scene of various pursuits and recreation. Horse-racing, encouraged by the Duke of Bedford, started in 1753 and continued spasmodically under local hunts into the 1920s. Cricket has featured prominently with Tavistock's pitch formed in 1849 at the western end, surrounded by granite posts which formerly held chains from which the ground gained its name of 'The Ring'. Occupying much of the central area, the golf course – one of Devon's oldest and most beautifully sited – which started as a 9-hole course in 1891 and advanced to 18 holes in 1895, was not established without problems for the commoners and disputes over rights which had to be settled. Football has also been played at various times from 1946 on a pitch developed close to the 5-lane Caseytown crossroads.
A cherished feature on the western summit is the small building known as 'The Pimple'. Three-sided, it was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and built of local Hurdwick stone with a flared slate roof in 1914 to surmount an underground reservoir. No water is contained here now but the Pimple survives as a goal for walkers and a fine spot to enjoy the glorious views – east to Dartmoor's expanse and west to Cornwall's Bodmin Moor.